The lack of nationwide fine dining guide in the USA makes it sometimes hard to find the well hidden treasures outside the major cities. Then you need a friend like Steve Plotnicki who can point you in the right direction and sometimes even comes along.
One of those treasures is in Dover, New Hampshire. A city which is dominated downtown by large buildings from the former cotton goods industry along the Cochecho river. Now these buildings are converted into multiple use commercial buildings. One of those houses the Stages at One Washington Restaurant. A super small counter top restaurant with up to 9 seats can only be described as the most southern Nordic restaurant in the world. Most southern because its latitude corresponds with Marseille in Europe and not with Oslo, but the entire attitude and approach can only be described as Nordic.
Chef Evan Hennessey sources all ingredients from local farmers with whom he as long established relationships. He produces a 14 course almost carb free menu full of interesting combinations like matching tomatoes and strawberries. To the mushrooms he added mushroom crumble which added a fantastic texture to the dish. His slowly cooked veal cheeks were spot on. The cheese course paired blue cheese with blueberries. Luckily for Chef Hennessey his restaurant is so far south that all of his fruits are actually ripe, a pleasant change to some of the Nordic fare.
What a hidden treasure in New Hampshire! The Guide Michelin defines a 2 star place as worth a detour, well I happily would make the journey again anytime soon.
Stages at One Washington, One Washington St., Suite 325 • Dover, NH 03820
21st July 2016